A divine beverage reborn

pulque, remittances & andor

Author

Rocio L
May 16, 2025

Happy Friday! 

Today’s edition includes a milky, slightly sour love letter to one of Mexico’s oldest (and most misunderstood) drinks: pulque. If you’ve ever tried one of those free tourist samples and thought, never again, you’ll want to read this.

We’re thrilled to feature our very first contributor, Leigh Thelmadatter, who knows a thing or two about going deeper than surface sips. Leigh came to Mexico over 20 years ago to teach English — and never left. Since then, she’s been writing about Mexican culture, history, and traditions with warmth, curiosity, and plenty of fieldwork. She’s also the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta.

P.S. I’m looking for contributors! If you’re interested in writing pieces that align with the tone and content of this newsletter – whether cultural, newsy, or a mix of both – please reply with your top 3 topic ideas and a writing sample. No promo content, just thoughtful reporting or storytelling. It’s unpaid for now (I don’t make money from this either), but you’ll get a byline, bio, and links.

P.P.S. Quick reminder: I only promote community events for free. Please send the link to the specific event you would like me to feature. If you’d like to feature a product or service, I offer affordable sponsorships. Let’s keep it fair.

Now, onto the good stuff.

TOP STORY

Finding the Good Stuff: A Beginner’s Guide to Pulque

If nothing else, I can say this: make sure your first taste of pulque is not one of those free samples tourist restaurants hand out. No matter what the waiter says, slimy is not what pulque is supposed to be.

That said, I admit that the good stuff can be hard to find.

What is pulque, anyway?

Like tequila and mezcal, pulque is made from agave, but the similarities end there. The giant agave used for pulque, known as maguey in central Mexico, spans meters in height and width. When its reproductive stalk is cut at just the right moment, a sweet sap begins to collect in a well at the plant’s center.

This sap, called aguamiel ("honey water"), is a drinkable, light amber liquid. Left to sit for a few days, it ferments into a milky-white drink with low alcohol content.

Why good pulque is hard to find

You can easily find maguey on the outskirts of Mexico City and beyond — so why is it so difficult to find good pulque?

It comes down to pulque’s unusual fermentation process. Unlike most alcoholic drinks, which rely on yeast, pulque is transformed by a naturally occurring bacteria. While yeast stops working once alcohol levels get too high, Zymomonas mobilis doesn’t know when to quit.

It rapidly changes aguamiel into good pulque, and then into bad-tasting pulque, in just a few days. That quick decline is actually baked into the name: “pulque” comes from the Nahuatl octli, with “pulque” meaning “spoiled octli.” Because it's hard to keep fresh, pulque is often served curado — mixed with fruits or flavorings to mask any hints of spoilage. These can range from strawberry to... shrimp cocktail.

Where to get the good stuff

The very best pulque I’ve had has been in rural, maguey-producing areas like Estado de México, Puebla, and Hidalgo. That said, good pulque can be found in Mexico City if you know where to look. Before committing to a glass, ask for a small sample of the natural. It should be a smooth, uniform white with a mild or pleasantly sour aroma. If it passes the test, you can decide whether to drink it plain or try a curado.

My first taste of good natural pulque was a revelation, and it’s now my preferred way to drink it whenever possible.

Are pulquerías sketchy?

Pulque lost its “divine” status after the Spanish conquest, and over the centuries its consumption became strongly tied to the working class, especially in Mexico City. For a long time, trying pulque meant walking into hole-in-the-wall bars where you risked the usual hazards of a no-frills local drinking spot. But just like tequila and mezcal, pulque has experienced a kind of renaissance. These days, Mexico City boasts pulquerías for every type of drinker. As a rule of thumb: if you’re comfortable in the neighborhood, you’ll be fine in the pulquería. Inside, you might even find colorful murals, friendly regulars, and bartenders eager to help respectful newcomers.

So, where to start?

I’ve had good luck introducing friends to Pulquería Los Insurgentes in Colonia Roma — trendy, yes, but reliable. For something a bit more educational, Museo del Pulque y las Pulquerías near Metro Hidalgo offers solid pulque and some context to go with it.

If you’re feeling bold, check out Los Duelistas in the historic center or La Paloma Azul in Portales Sur.

And once you’ve decided pulque is your cup of tea, the very best spots are usually discovered through word of mouth.

Written by: Leigh Thelmadatter

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CULTURE & HAPPENINGS
ROCIO RECOMMENDS

Andor Season 2. I’ve been obsessed with Diego Luna long before his Star Wars debut—but his role in Rogue One (2016) was stellar. In 2022, we got a prequel series centered on his character, Andor—and it was epic. The showrunner called it “Star Wars for adults,” and honestly, he wasn’t wrong. The second (and final!) season is out, and I highly recommend diving in.

VIRAL VAULT

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